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  • Writer's pictureAsha

The end of the world

Updated: Apr 19, 2021

Lochmaddy’s cool welcome didn’t affect our level of excitement to be sheltering in its vast bay dotted by rocky islands of various shapes and sizes and covered with 4G. We dropped the anchor near the town and ferry terminal and retreated down below. Motoring, other than speeding up a journey on a windless day, has a really good by-product in the form of hot water so we had a hot showers upon arrival and, after the usual night cap, we retired into a restful sleep despite the forecast for strong wind. This is especially surprising for Mark because I know it doesn’t take much to make him dream feverishly about XC-Weather forecasts full off red warnings!

Pontoon in Lochmaddy

The whizz of the wind turbine announced the arrival of stronger winds in the early hours but since the anchor alarm reliably never sleeps, we rolled over and carried on sleeping. As is the norm for Sundays after awaking properly we had Bailey’s coffee in bed and a chilled start to the day. Around midday we emerged above deck with the intention of launching the dinghy and going ashore but the wind speed, just shy of a gale eight, convinced us to enjoy Sunday on the boat in the warmth of the gas heater.

By about 8am this morning the wind had decreased but the forecast showed a new gale due to arrive by early evening and this time coming from the northwest. We planned to move to a different part of the loch to shelter but the sketchy topography of the area with special features in the form of fish farms swayed our decision and instead we moved to the pontoon right beside the ferry terminal which came with electricity allowing the joyful plugging in of the fan heater!

Mooring on the pontoon makes it so much easier to set foot on land so we took a walk ashore in the early afternoon and stocked up in the local shop. The shop offered basic essentials and some treats so we ended up having coconut and icing covered sponge cakes for lunch while walking around the unusual town, featuring wooden paneled houses, set on a rocky shore. We took note of the local pub with firm intention to return for a little celebration of our arrival on the Hebrides! Any excuse will do! 

The low tide reveals hidden rock and weedy bottom of the seabed.

Simple yet reliable - self-adjustable wind turbine.


Wooden panel covered houses.

Sunset on arrival in Lochmaddy.

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